My latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

Spicebush begins to flower in late winter or early spring. The leaves sprout in mid-spring. Green fruit begins growing by late spring.

And right now, the oblong fruit starts ripening - turning bright, shiny red and continuing throughout late summer.

Spicebush, also known as “Lindera benzoin,” is a shrub common throughout Appalachia that has edible twigs, buds, flowers, leaves, and unripe and ripe fruit.

The most concentrated flavor, though, is in those red berries that are ripening as we speak. Or read.

It is an intensely aromatic berry that is sweet and reminiscent of allspice. In fact, spicebush is often called “poor man’s allspice.” Think of cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper and clove notes.

For those reasons, spicebush - which can be used fresh or dried - goes well with fruits and baked goods: peach cobbler, apple pie, etc.

Native Americans used the twigs, shoots and bark to make tea, as well as to season and flavor their food. It has also long been used as a folk remedy for blood problems, sweating, colds, fevers, rheumatism and anemia.

European settlers incorporated the spice into their kitchens, and during the American Revolution, it was used as a substitute for allspice.

During the Civil War, soldiers drank spicebush tea as a substitute for coffee when rations were low, which gave off the flavor of a spicy, aromatic black tea.

While spicebush has played an important role in the country’s past, many people nowadays have never heard of it, despite its prevalence of growing wild throughout Appalachia.

Spicebush is not a commonly found spice in grocery stores or even specialty food stores, but it is coveted in farmers markets and the foraging community.

Occasionally, it can be found on the menu of a farm-to-table restaurant with a creative chef. Take, for example, Elwood Restaurant just outside of Philadelphia that serves their “Elwood Blend” tea: spicebush, goldenrod, bee balm, and stinging nettle.

In Franklin, Tennessee, restaurant Chrysalis Modern Italian serves a “Spicebush Manhattan,” which incorporates cardamom and cherry bitters into the classic drink.

If you are a keen observer, you may be able to score yourself some spicebush while out and about in nature. Or, you can go the easier route (ahem, like this writer) and find some dried berries online to purchase.

It may quickly become one of your favorite spices on the shelf due to its versatility - for meat and poultry, pastry and baked goods, fruits and even drinks. And, while using it, you will be carrying on a forgotten Appalachian food tradition.

Passing on these spices and foods to future generations is important to help tell the story of West Virginia’s food culture. Without that shared knowledge, traditions such as these can be lost to time and fade into history.

Try out this new spice to experience a unique flavor and keep the legacy of this historic spice alive for years to come. You may even end up replacing allspice altogether in your spice cabinet.