I am on a lifelong journey to help tell the stories of Appalachia through food. And there are a number of chefs doing incredible things to help elevate the reputation of Appalachian food. I stumbled upon one such chef recently: Travis Milton.



So, I made a day trip down to Bristol, Virginia, where he's currently cooking to get a taste of the food he's churning out. Nicewonder Farm & Vineyard is a beautiful property, with a tasting room, vineyard, yurts, and inn with Milton's restaurant, Hickory. 



"Hickory’s menu is inspired by Milton’s Appalachian heritage, culture, and traditions, and uses locally sourced produce to create the freshest and most unique flavors you have ever experienced. Food & Wine recently described it as “a culinary curriculum in the form of a menu and mission focused on one thing: honoring Appalachian food, and the diverse and dignified people who make it.” Hickory is showcasing the finest in Appalachian cuisine, in the most elegant of atmospheres. Whether seated in the main dining room, in the private dining room, or at the exclusive Chef’s Table you will be awed at the mastery of Chef Milton and his team. The vast bar offers the best in craft cocktails, local brews, and ciders, to enjoy before or after your meal, or treat yourself to a wine tasting in our 1700 bottle-capacity wine cellar boasting a curated wine collection, including Nicewonder Vineyards’ own award-winning wines," according to the website.



I made a reservation for the earliest dinner slot - 5 p.m. - so I would be able to drive back home at a reasonable hour. After parking, I descended the spiral staircase, which emptied me into the main dining area. 



It's a beautiful space - large, open dining space with exposed wood that gives way to a chef's table area. Not quite an open kitchen, but an open "finishing" area. The main bar also overlooks the pond and vineyards. 



After a little wait and back-and-forth, I was seated and presented with a menu. The online menu does not reflect the current offerings necessarily, but it gives an idea of what could be offered at any point in time. I'm not really sure the menu changes so often that they can't update it on the website, but many of the items were indeed the same.



First, I started off with a glass of wine; I'm at a winery after all. I went with the Viognier, because I don't think I've eve had that before: 2017 Nicewonder Vineyards Viognier - VA - Virginia - $35.00 / 750 mL Bottle. "There is a minerality to this wine, with flavors of white nectarine, honeysuckle, vanilla, and a hint of creamed asian pear. It is bold, light bodied and round with a long, clean, crisp floral finish. Pairs well with Ahi Tuna Niçoise, yellow curry coconut rice and Dover Sole Meunière. Alcohol 13.50%"



To me, it was a nice dry white that had a crispness to it that I enjoyed. Not sure it was the best pairing for what I went with, which was ... 



Whipped Spam - nori, miso pickles, yuzu hot sauce, fried saltines. I love how weird this is. Whipped spam is a weird texture for me - I prefer mine hard-fried. But, I appreciate the idea of trying to elevate this very humble food that has been a part of so many of our diets. 



It's kinda like an Appalachian pate. I liked the pickles for the acidic bite, with a touch of sweetness.



I also tried some cornbread and sorghum butter. The cornbread was a dark color, so I asked what the cornmeal was. The server said it depends and sometimes it's red or purple. It would have been great with a soup or stew.



I won't wade into the sugar or no sugar debate with cornbread, but I can definitely say this was more savory with giant flecks of salt.



For my main dish, I wen with a potato gnocchi with beech mushrooms and chanterelle mushrooms plus a ramp pesto.



This was so, so good. Those little supple gnocchi, earthy mushrooms, bright ramp sauce and fresh microgreens made this a delicious, well-rounded plate. 



Granted, this has a few of my favorite things all in one dish, so it was sort of made for me. I love these flavors and textures, and if anything, I just wish there was more.



So, after these courses, I was already pretty full. But when the server asked if I wanted to see a dessert menu, how could I say no? 



I ordered dessert to go. I opted for the Apple Stack Cake - vanilla chantilly, apple butter, oat streusel, apple syrup. 



I literally squealed when I got home and opened the container. It is the absolute cutest mini, personal apple stack cake. This is a traditional Appalachian dessert, and I've never had a mini one. Think of like a bunch of silver dollar pancakes layered with apple butter. It's dense and homey and filling and the perfect ending to an interesting and meaningful meal. 



Grade: A