COLUMN: Divine candy keeps it cool

By Candace Nelson - 8:22 PM

Divinity

Here's my latest column in the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

It is a candy fit for the gods.

Made with egg whites, corn syrup, sugar and usually pecans, Divinity is an old-fashioned, Southern candy that is similar to nougat, fudge or meringue. Sometimes divinity can contain dried fruit or other chopped nuts. And, if the white sugar is replaced with brown sugar, the resulting sister confection is called “sea foam.”

“Although recipes for various nougat and sweet meringue-type confections (with and without nuts and fruit) can be traced to ancient Turkish and 17th century European roots, food historians generally agree that Divinity … is an early 20th century American invention,” according to FoodTimeline.org.

“Why? One of the primary ingredients in early Divinity recipes is corn syrup, a product actively marketed to (and embraced by) American consumers as a sugar substitute at that time. Corn syrup was affordable (economical), practical (shelf-stable), and adapted well to most traditional recipes.”

The candy is specifically tied to the South most likely due to the inclusion of pecans, and it is often given as a gift during the holidays or other gatherings. Divinity made its way north into Appalachia and beyond. Like many other Appalachian foods, divinity was born from the need to work with what is available, cost-effective and just downright tasty. And like Appalachia as a whole, divinity can be fickle.

“Much like it is when making meringues, the key to making a successful divinity has everything to do with the weather! If possible, always make divinity on a cool, dry day. As sugar attracts water, any humidity or moisture in the air can affect how your divinity turns out. Divinity should be dry and set within two hours, but have patience. It may take a little longer,” according to culinary assistant Mark Neufang at Taste of Home.

Humidity is a huge factor in making divinity, because it needs to be low enough for the candy to be able to dry properly. Here is how it works: Divinity has a lot of sugar, which absorbs moisture from the air. So, when the humidity is high, the sugar will absorb more moisture, which will make the divinity less dry and more sticky. This can cause the divinity to not set properly and become a gooey mess. When made under the right conditions, it is a soft, white candy that should be dry to the touch. For best results, make divinity on a dry day with humidity levels below 50%.

If that is not possible, here are some tips for making divinity on a humid day:
Use a dehumidifier in the kitchen
Cook the divinity in the oven with the door open
Keep the divinity in an airtight container

While divinity is not something that holds dear memories for me, nor have I made it many times over, I appreciate how it came to be and how it serves as a role in community building. Whether it is a gift for Christmas or homemade version at a family reunion, divinity is one of those treats that is best to share. It’s one that families can make together and pass down tips and tricks through generations. And it is one that can help form bonds and memories. Have you made divinity before? Do you have any traditions surrounding this treat or others?

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