Here is my latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

Few drinks are as symbolic of southern culture as the burgundy soda found in convenience stores and gas stations across the region.

Cheerwine, a cherry-flavored soft drink, has been a staple in the Appalachian south for more than a century. Born in Salisbury, North Carolina, in 1917, the soda was created by general store owner L.D. Peeler amid a sugar shortage. He discovered he could use less sugar with the punchy cherry flavor and still deliver a delicious drink.

The effervescent beverage stood out amongst the more common colas and root beer sodas at the time. Though Cheerwine is named for its cherry hue and not for any alcoholic content, it gained immediate popularity as a refreshing, non-alcoholic alternative.

Cheerwine slowly expanded across the Appalachian region, spreading its cherry goodness into Virginia, Tennessee, West Virginia, and beyond. And in doing so, it evolved into more than just a sweet and slightly tangy drink. It became a representation of place and a point of pride.

And, its application evolved as well.

“In addition to being great on its own, Cheerwine is the most versatile soft drink around,” reads the website. “Our unique cherry taste does wonders for all types of food and drink recipes. From smoothing out hot wings to adding that great cherry flavor to brownies, the possibilities are endless”

Cheerwine’s signature sweetness and subtle tang complement a wide variety of dishes, from glazed ham to baked beans. In some parts of Appalachia, you’ll even find recipes passed down through generations that incorporate the soda, with cooks using it to marinate meats, sweeten sauces or even add to desserts.

But perhaps the most famous Cheerwine-inspired dish is barbecue sauce. The deep cherry notes are sweet, tangy, and rich; it’s a perfect match for many of the region’s traditional foods like slow-cooked pork, fried chicken and more. The barbecue sauce has gained a cult following and can be found in local restaurants as a wing flavor or paired with jalapeño poppers.

Cheerwine’s distinct flavor, history, and deep roots in the region make it a beloved icon in the region. For many in Appalachia, Cheerwine represents more than just a soft drink—it’s a connection to the past. Whether it’s sipping a bottle of Cheerwine on a front porch or passing down family recipes that incorporate the soda, there’s a sense of pride and tradition that surrounds it.