My column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:
’Twas the night before an Appalachian Christmas, when all through the house, not a creature was stirring — not even an opossum. The stockings were hung by the chimney with care, in hopes that the Mothman would soon be there. With potato candy.
Or something like that.
Making candy in the mountains is a traditional holiday activity, and some favorites found in cookbooks include black walnut fudge, molasses taffy and potato candy. That’s right — candy made from potatoes.
Potato candy came to the region around the turn of the century, reportedly from Germany, according to the website of True Treats Candy in Harpers Ferry. The recipe arrived with immigrants — possibly memorized instead of written — and consisted of two main ingredients: potatoes and powdered sugar. It later took on the addition of peanut butter, which swirls through the middle like a jelly roll.
“The potato candy soon became popular among the Irish of Appalachia, who were unable to afford more expensive candy, such as chocolates. Potatoes were readily available, the candy was easy to make, and it tasted great,” according to the website.
True to Appalachian culture, cooks during the depression era were resourceful with inexpensive ingredients. Potatoes, which are resilient and could withstand harsh growing conditions, were cheap and could serve as a solid base for many dishes — including desserts.
The addition of peanut butter came during this time, which was another product made with a hearty crop. Potato candy is particularly prominent in Pennsylvania Dutch areas, with many claiming that is where it originated. Wherever its origins, potato candy has been passed down through generations and rightfully claims the centerpiece at many holiday dessert tables in Appalachia.
And it is easy to see why: The dessert simply uses the starch for texture, and the flavors that shine are the sweet sugar and nutty peanut butter, which supplies a lovely contrast. Simplistic in nature, the dessert is a perfectly easy snack and looks beautiful on a cookie tray.
Most of all, I like the backstory on its creation — relying on resourcefulness and innovation to create a pleasant dessert. Many of these same qualities are what I appreciate in Appalachians as a whole. Food often reflects who we are as a group of people, and this one is no exception. At the root, it’s straightforward, humble and creative — that’s my kind dessert. And people.
Senate is a trendy pub known for their unique hot dogs and creative cocktails.
There were so many hot dogs on the menu that sounded delicious:
- Korean - beef hotdog, homemade kimchi, braised short rib, pickled cucumber & sesame seeds
- Trailer Park - beef hotdog, applewood bacon, american cheese, coleslaw & crushed grippos
- Spuds Mackenzie - beef hotdog, bacon, duck fat fries, cheese sauce, pickled jalapeños, sour cream & chives
- Chicago - beef hotdog, tomato, mustard, onion, neon relish, sport peppers, pickle & celery salt
- Mexico City - beef hotdog, guacamole, chipotle crema, double smoked bacon, queso fresco, tortilla strips
- Lindsay Lohan - beef hotdog, goat cheese, caramelized onions, bacon, arugula, balsamic & tons of drama
Which would you choose? I went with the Spuds Mackenzie: beef hotdog, bacon, duck fat fries, cheese sauce, pickled jalapeños, sour cream & chives. It kinda sounded like a baked potato - but in fry form ... and on top of a hot dog. But it was good! Flavor combo was on point, and I love splitting the hot dog so all that goodness literally gets inside.Which is your favorite?
You've probably heard of Rhinegeist - or at least Cidergeiest, the cider offshoot of the brewery.
Rhinegeist is a brewery built within the skeleton of the old Moerlein bottling plant located in the Over-the-Rhine historical district. The tasting room is a giant indoor adult playground with cornhole, ping pong and more. Kids (and anyone under the age of 21) are allowed in the taproom until 8pm on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights. Ages 21+ can head up to the rooftop deck for more brews plus cocktails and views of downtown and the surrounding areas. Food can be brought into the taproom and is also available for purchase from the food stand serving items from Sartre OTR located next door.
This brewery is huge, and it really is more of an adult playground than anything.
There are tables and the bar area, but there's open space for cornhole and other games.
I happened to be there when they released "existential apples," which is a sour apple with apples.
So, clearly I needed that!
And, yes, it was everything.
Tart and sweet and flavorful. It's really, really good. Just like all the beer - and cider - here!
What's your favorite?
Taft's Ale House serves craft beer, food and more in this brewpub named after Cincinnati's favorite son.
Constructed in 1850 amidst the burgeoning Over-the-Rhine brewing industry, St. Paul’s Evangelical Church was once the oldest protestant parish in the Queen City. Young Billy Taft may have even sauntered past, his cheeks still stained with gooseberry pie. Unbeknownst to him, this structure would carry on his own legacy.
Young Billy would go onto become Supreme Court Chief Justice, Yale Bonesman, and 27th US President,William Howard Taft. He was a collegiate heavyweight-wrestling champion, could bury a two-seam fastball through the backside of a catcher’s mitt, and made the most brazen ham tremble with a single glance. Our city was without its fabled folk hero for too long, but at last the mythos of Big Billy has been restored.
The legend of Cincinnati’s prodigal son lives on inside the hallowed halls of Taft’s Ale House. Join your fellow compatriots, hand-in-handle, as we toast flawless libations, feast on fine fare, and renew a national pastime of united tomfoolery in the pursuit of muddled happiness.
They had a whole list of drafts on tap, so I did a flight.
They also had a good number of cocktails available.
But since beer is their thing, I went with a few: sour vice, Nellie's key lime, oktuberfest, jerk and gustav.
The sour vice was by far my favorite - no surprise there - but they were all solid.
What's your favorite?
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