Here is my latest column for the newspaper:

Cornbread is controversial.

Savory? Sweet? White cornmeal or yellow? Finely ground or coarse? Baked or fried?

It’s treacherous territory to wade into. Culinary landmines pave the path of conversation, which is why I have avoided the topic. Until now.

The truth is, I don’t have an allegiance to a particular type of cornbread. I didn’t grow up eating it — aside from school lunches when it was paired with chili — so I don’t have those deep-rooted memories or moments associated with it.

But many do. Whether it was served with every family dinner or grandma passed down her recipe, cornbread elicits feelings in people.

Like whether you prefer stick or slice pepperoni in pepperoni rolls. Or whether ketchup belongs on a hot dog. Or whether pineapple is acceptable on pizza.

People have opinions. Strong ones.

Opinions often fall along the geographical boundaries of North vs. South — and Appalachia straddles both.

Corn pone: More than an insult

First, though, there were indigenous communities growing corn before colonists adopted the practice. Then, everyone was making corn pone, which is made of cornmeal, water and salt, plus lard or drippings. Many in Appalachia still make a version of this recipe and refer to cornbread in a pan as a “pone” of cornbread.

Then in the early 20th century, industrial milling was introduced in the South. It changed cornmeal because the corn was harvested before it was ripe in an effort to increase the quantity, improve the shelf life and decrease the cost. But, that led to a loss of flavor and sweetness in cornmeal.

So, the North became known for its sweet cornbread, while the South for its savory cornbread.

But, that divide runs even deeper. Poor cooks in the South — especially Black cooks — may have compensated for the cornmeal change by adding sugar and flour to their cornbread, creating a sweet cornbread recipe that was subsequently passed down through generations, according to Kathleen Purvis’ award-winning article “Why does sugar in cornbread divide races in the South?” in The Charlotte Observer.

The cornbread lines of demarcation are not straight and contain myriad branches. That’s why the tired refrain along the lines of “if cornbread was meant to have sugar, it would be cake,” begs the larger question of who gets to decide what is and what is not considered “Southern” food – or even Appalachian food, for that matter.

Appalachia’s version

In Appalachia, the one cornbread constant is that it is most often prepared in a cast iron skillet. Recipes have likely been passed down through oral traditions and may also go by “johnny cakes” or “hoe cakes,” which is essentially a cornbread pancake.

Often, family recipes call for very few ingredients — reflective of the mountain tradition of making use of humble ingredients that are available. But, you’ll find some cornbread recipes with white cornmeal and others with yellow. You’ll find some with sugar and some without. Some may incorporate local maple syrup or honey. Others may rely on buttermilk.

Like many Appalachian dishes, cornbread has often been made as a means of necessity. It is cheap and filling and pairs well with soup beans, chow chow or milk to create a delicious meal. Plus, it can come together pretty quickly.

Cornbread diversity is welcome here in Appalachia. Make it how your family has made it for years, or mix it up and try something new. Now for the next debate - beans or no beans in chili?