Avec opened in 2003 in Chicago’s West Loop, created by chef Paul Kahan and restaurateur Donnie Madia. Designed by Thomas Schlesser, the space is long and narrow, clad in warm cedar planks, with communal tables and counter seating that encourage a shared dining experience. The concept blends the casual atmosphere of a wine bar with a menu inspired by the flavors of the Mediterranean, drawing from the culinary traditions of Spain, Italy, France, and the Middle East. The restaurant is best known for its small-plate format and seasonal approach to cooking. Over the years, Avec has received multiple local and national accolades, and has become widely recognized within Chicago’s dining culture. Signature items include bacon-wrapped, chorizo-stuffed dates served with piquillo pepper-tomato sauce, salt cod brandade with garlic bread, and wood-oven roasted fish. Avec’s bacon-wrapped dates are one of the restaurant’s most famous dishes and have been on the menu since its early years. They start with Medjool dates, which are stuffed with chorizo sausage for a savory, spiced filling. Each date is then wrapped in smoky bacon and roasted until the exterior is crisp and the interior is hot and caramelized. The finished dates are served in a shallow pool of piquillo pepper–tomato sauce, which adds a sweet, tangy, and slightly smoky element that balances the richness of the bacon and sausage. The dish is plated in a small cast-iron pan, keeping it hot at the table and adding to its rustic presentation. Avec’s deluxe focaccia is another signature dish. It’s a thin, golden slab of house-made focaccia, baked until the crust is crisp and the inside remains soft and airy. The bread is filled with a warm, savory mixture of taleggio cheese and fresh herbs, plus truffle oil. Yum.

The other snack I ordered was potato and salted cod brandade with garlic crostini and chive. Brandade is a classic Mediterranean preparation made with salt cod that has been soaked to remove excess salt, then blended with olive oil and cream until smooth and spreadable. The result is a warm, velvety purée with a mild, slightly briny flavor. It’s served in a small crock, accompanied by slices of toasted garlic bread for scooping. Grade: A