Oahu, HI Edition: Koko Head Cafe, Leonard's Bakery, Rainbow Drive-In, Giovanni's Shrimp Truck, Aliʻi Lūʻau at Polynesian Cultural Center & Liliha Bakery

By Candace Nelson - 7:56 PM

On my second day in Hawaii, I explored Oahu. Rather than book an excursion, I rented a car to drive around the island and hit up all the stops I wanted to see.

I spent the morning exploring the grounds of Pearl Harbor and taking a boat out to view the memorial. The attack on Pearl Harbor happened on December 7, 1941, just before 8:00 a.m. It was a surprise military strike by the Imperial Japanese Navy Air Service against the U.S. naval base at Pearl Harbor in Hawaii. The attack lasted about 1 hour and 15 minutes. More than 2,400 Americans were killed, and nearly 1,200 were wounded. Eight U.S. battleships were damaged, and four were sunk. The USS Arizona lost 1,177 crew members, and the ship still rests beneath the memorial today. The next day, December 8, 1941, the United States declared war on Japan, officially entering World War II.

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Koko Head Cafe in Honolulu is headed up by Chef Lee Anne Wong, and it's known for creative brunch and breakfast dishes.

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Chef Lee Anne Wong gained national recognition as a finalist on Top Chef Season 1 and later served as the show’s supervising culinary producer, helping design challenges and source ingredients. She has also appeared on Iron Chef America, Chopped, and Top Chef All Stars.

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First off, I started with a guava juice. I knew I was going to order some savory dishes, so the sweet fruitness would be a nice pairing. It's sweet-tart and tropical. Refreshing.

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"Dumplings All Day Wong" is a daily dumpling special. On this day, it was moussaka inspired with local beef, roaste eggplant, bechamel sauce, spice tomato sauce, Italian parsley. This cemented for me that dumplings in all forms are one of my favorite foods.

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I was really tempted to try the breakfast congee or breakfast bibimbap, but I went with the Koko Moco, which has a local beef patty, savory mushroom gravy, sunny up egg, tempura kimchi and crispy garlic rice. This was a textural heaven.

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Leonard's Bakery in Honolulu, Oʻahu, is one of Hawaii’s most iconic and beloved bakeries, famous island‑wide for its freshly made malasadas — Portuguese‑style fried dough treats that are crisp on the outside, fluffy inside, and coated in sugar.

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"In June 1882 the British sailing ship ‘Monarch' brought Arsenio and Amelia DoRego from San Miguel Island, Portugal to Maui, Hawai'i under contract to work the sugar cane fields. Some 33 years later, their grandson Leonard was born. In 1946 Leonard and his wife Margaret moved to Honolulu with their daughter Diane, age 8. Leonard worked at Snowflake Bakery until he founded Leonard's Bakery in 1952.Leonard and Margaret were no strangers to hard work, both coming from very large families. The bakery prospered. Not long after opening, Leonard's mother suggested making malasadas for Shrove Tuesday – a Portuguese tradition. Although thinking it may be too ethnic, Leonard's bakers complied. Malasadas were a huge hit. And, the appetite for malasadas in Hawaii was born," reads the website.

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For malasadas, they offer original, cinnamon and "li hing," which is sweet and sour sugar. I ordered both an original to try it and a li hing to see the difference.

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It's pastry dough that's fried until golden brown. So the inside stays fluffy, but the outside is a bit crunchy and chewy. And they have a sweet toasted flavor.

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There are also filled malasadas - or malasadas puffs. I ordered the custard, dobash, macadamia and guava. They also had haupia, which is a coconut filling, but I'm not the biggest coconut fan so I opted against that one.

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These were worth the very long line. They were golden and lightly crisp on the outside, coated in a soft layer of sugar. When you bite in, the interior is pillowy and airy, almost custardy-soft, with a subtle buttery richness and the creamy center melts into the fluffy dough and makes the whole thing feel indulgent but somehow still light.

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After driving through some of the beautiful roads in Honolulu, I stopped at Rainbow Drive-In, which is a classic institution that’s been serving up Hawaii plate lunch comfort food since 1961.

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The plate lunches are served with rice or fries and macaroni salad or slaw. And, they have a main protein - chili dog, mahi mahi, beef, hamburger steak, etc.

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I ordered the Mix Plate, which had bbq beef, boneless chicken, and mahi mahi, served with two scoops of rice and macaroni salad. The BBQ beef was sweet, sticky, and deeply savory, the chicken tender with a mild char, and the mahi mahi flaky and fresh with just enough seasoning to let the fish shine. Paired with fluffy rice and cool, light macaroni salad, every bite was balanced and satisfying

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Giovanni's Shrimp Truck is one of Oʻahu’s most famous roadside seafood spots and a must-visit if you’re exploring the North Shore. It started in 1993 out of a converted bread truck and quickly became iconic for its garlic-rich shrimp plates served Hawaiian plate-lunch style with rice, helping popularize the North Shore’s shrimp truck scene.

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The menu is simple and focused — three shrimp dish options, plus a garlic dog and sides. The Scampi is the most popular -- a dozen jumbo shrimp marinated in olive oil, fresh chopped garlic all sauteed in a pan and served with two schoops of rice.

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It is garlicky goodness. It's drenched in buttery, lemony garlic and is just beautiful on the slightly sweet shrimp. It's messy - in the best way.

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Polynesian Cultural Center in Lāʻie on Oʻahu’s North Shore is a living cultural experience spread across a lush 42-acre campus where you can explore, learn about, and participate in the traditions of Pacific Island cultures.

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Founded in 1963 to support students at the nearby university and preserve Pacific heritage, the Center showcases multiple island villages — from Hawaiʻi to Samoa, Tonga, Fiji, Tahiti, Aotearoa (New Zealand), the Marquesas and Rapa Nui (Easter Island) — with live demonstrations, storytelling, crafts, dance, music, and interactive activities that celebrate each culture’s customs and arts.

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During the daytime experience, you can wander village exhibits, try traditional foods, watch canoe pageants, learn crafts like weaving or ukulele, and see performances of hula, drumming, or fire-knife skills.

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Aliʻi Lūʻau at Polynesian Cultural Center is one of the most famous traditional luau experiences on Oʻahu, offering an evening that blends authentic Hawaiian food, cultural ceremony, and lively performance.

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It’s set in a beautiful outdoor venue with waterfalls, gardens, and lagoons, and begins with a warm orchid lei greeting and the sounding of the pu (conch shell) to welcome guests.

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The luau features a buffet of classic island dishes such as kalua pork cooked in an imu (underground oven), huli huli chicken, fresh fish, poke, poi, local fruits and more — all reflecting traditional Hawaiian flavors with locally sourced ingredients.

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Main entrees include: Imu Puaʻa Pork (whole pig cooked underground, Kalua Pork, Huli Huli Chicken, Teriyaki Brisket, Pipikaula (marinated Hawaiian beef), Pan-Seared Local Fresh Fish with ʻOlena Calamansi Glaze, Whole Steamed Kona Kanpachi in Ti Leaves, Moa with ʻOpū (chicken & squash) and Fried Saimin.

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Also: North Shore Crispy Garlic Shrimp, Fried Rice, Hekka - Stir-fried Glass Noodles, Tofu Poke, Pulehu Broccolini - to cook over coals, Uala Hasselback - sweet potato, Kabocha Pumpkin Stir-fry and Steamed White Rice.

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Also: Ahi Shoyu Poke, Spicy Poke, Shrimp Poke and Tako Poke (Octopus Poke).

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Plus: Poi, Taro Rolls with Butter, Pickled Cucumber w/ Kahuku limu, Sweet Potato Salad, North Shore Greens and Lilikoi Aioli.

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Fruit included Pineapple, Mango, Papaya & Kiwi.

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They also serve 2 rotating seasonal fruits which could include Guava, Rambutan, Longan, Dragon Fruit, Star Fruit, Persimmon, or Lychee.

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Desserts include: Mango Cheesecake Trifle, Chocolate Guava Cake, Koele Palau on Shortbread Cookie - traditional and Hawaiian Sweet potato pudding with coconut cream.

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Haupia Kulolo Sweet Tart - Hau-cool, Pia-arrowroot which is a coconut pudding dessert that is thickened with cornstarch, Pineapple Crème Brulee and Assorted Gelato/ Sorbetto Flavors.

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I also enjoyed the pineapple drink served in a pineapple. Non-alcoholic. All tropical.

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I also received a real lei while enjoying the show.

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It was comfortable, enlightening and delicious.

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First luau. Check.

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My final stop before departing back to the cruise ship was Liliha Bakery.

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Liliha Bakery is a beloved Honolulu institution that’s been baking from scratch since 1950, known for its classic pastries.

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It's known for: Coco Puffs; Chantilly Cake – A classic Hawaiian dessert that’s a hit for birthdays and celebrations; and Butter Rolls with Raspberry Jam – A local favorite baked item.

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I got one “Kimono Girl” decorated cookies — which is a shortbread or sugar cookies iced in the shape of traditional-style figures wearing kimono-like designs.

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The Coco Puff is a light cream puff filled with chocolate pudding and topped with their signature Chantilly frosting. Definitely a sweet, light bite.

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Finally, I tried a poi mochi donnut - which has a chewy, slightly springy texture that is addictive.

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