Here's my latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

A meal of biscuits and gravy is a long-held Appalachian breakfast staple — one that uses up the tasty skillet leftovers to create a delicious, tummy-filling dish.

This simple homemade breakfast can often be an indulgence in and of itself, but consider an even more extravagant kind of gravy to top those fluffy, buttery biscuits: chocolate.

Now, hear me out. You might be thinking that’s gross. But not all gravy has to be made from meat fat and drippings. Rather, a gravy can be roux thickened in a skillet using fat — in this case, butter.

Chocolate gravy is an Appalachian tradition made with cocoa powder, sugar, flour, milk, butter — all whisked smooth and poured over top hot, flaky biscuits.

Commonly found in the mountain South, chocolate gravy may have made its way to the area in the form of Mexican-style breakfast chocolate via trading between Spanish Louisiana and the Tennessee Valley, according to “The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America.”

“Another possibility is that the very old population of mixed-race Appalachian Melungeons has preserved the dish from the 16th and 17th century Spanish colonies on the East Coast,” the passage continues.

However it made its way to the mountains, chocolate gravy fits right in. It speaks to the resourcefulness of the people here and making use of pantry staples to create a tasty meal — an indulgence when such luxuries were often difficult to come by.

While chocolate gravy may not be prevalent in the more northern part of Appalachia, it has a beloved place in the southern region — for sweet snacks and special Sunday morning breakfasts. And if you still turn your nose up at the thought, consider how satisfying this dish could be after winter dinners of beans and cornbread or vegetable stew.

For those who have never tasted the spread, think of a chocolate pudding. In fact, the two are so similar you can swap the flour in the chocolate gravy recipe for cornstarch and have a dessert. But poured over hot, buttery homemade biscuits, chocolate gravy becomes a meal. The sweet, rich chocolate mingled with the saltiness of a flaky biscuit is a classic flavor combination.

Think caramel popcorn. Think peanut butter and jelly. Think chocolate-covered pretzels.

While this meal may elicit strange reactions with its name, its flavor will make for salivating taste buds. The dish has been producing this same reaction for decades, with creators sharing the magic with friends and family.

This classic mountain South Appalachian recipe makes use of available ingredients and turns it into something extraordinary — which gets at the heart of what makes Appalachian dishes so special. These are real, authentic dishes that are rooted in our history and continue to be part of our story.

West Virginia often joins other states listed under headlines like, “The Most-Iconic Food in Every State,” “The 50 Foods Each State is Known For” and “The One Must-Eat Food in Every State.”

Each time I see one of these listicles, I quickly click through the website’s slideshow, passing by Georgia and Virginia, until about slide 48 to see what condiment, candy or Superbowl food West Virginia is most like.

(It’s Hidden Valley Ranch Dressing, Oreos and buffalo chicken dip, respectively.)

Discovering West Virginia’s representation via food is intriguing because, whether scientific or not, the results often speak to preferences of the general population. It’s always fascinating to see if the results align with my personal preferences. Mentally, I give a nod of approval or shake my head and think of a better option than the one the writer chose.

What do you think of these?

Favorite Fast-Food Burger: Five Guys’ Bacon Cheeseburger (Mental Floss). OK.
Most Popular Grocery Store: Kroger (MSN). Absolutely!
Most Popular Liquor: Jack Daniels (Business Insider). I can see that.
If Every State Had An Official Dessert: Shoofly Pie. Wait, what?

Slate published a piece titled “The United Sweets of America: If every state had an official dessert, what would it be?” years ago, and it continues to be recirculated and shared in various formats across the web.

And West Virginia was awarded shoofly pie. Here’s their explanation:

“Shoofly pie is a colorful name for molasses pie. It seems to have been invented, like so many other desserts, by the Pennsylvania Dutch, but molasses is a beloved ingredient throughout Appalachia, as evidenced by the West Virginia Molasses Festival, held annually in Arnoldsburg, West Virginia, since 1967.”

To me, that seems a better fitting for ... well ... Pennsylvania (they received “banana split,” by the way). I admit, determining West Virginia’s signature dessert is no easy task, as I’ve explored this topic before. But, nonetheless, this designation piqued my interest. I had never heard of shoofly pie, so I turned to Saveur for guidance:

“Shoofly pie — a molasses-filled, crumb-topped concoction from Pennsylvania Dutch country — was supposedly given its name because its shiny, sweet, and aromatic filling attracted flies that needed to be politely asked to leave. The pie, which is sprinkled with buttery crumbs that sink into the molasses and give it a cakelike consistency when baked, is classically served one of two ways: ‘wet bottom’ (cakelike up top and still fudgy below) or ‘dry bottom’ (cakelike throughout).”

I made a mental note to pick one up if I ever saw one for sale. And, that resolution recently came to fruition.

A few weeks ago, I placed an online order with the Turnrow Appalachian Farm Collective, an online farmers market that features locally grown food from producers across Southern West Virginia. Among the offerings was shoofly pie from Ronceverte-based Walnut Hollow Farm. I quickly added one pie to my cart, checked out, and picked up my purchase at Capitol Market — one of the delivery spots — a few days later.

So, I discovered I like Shoofly pie.

It’s tasty. This one had a delightfully fudgy bottom, with a light, airy filling. The slightly salty crust provided an excellent contrast. It was perfect with a glass of milk.

Does it embody West Virginia? I can see an argument based on one that incorporates sorghum molasses. But, otherwise, not so much.

My latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

There are few things more Appalachian than moonshine.

The outlaw liquor, often portrayed in the media as a jug with “XXX” on it to signify how many times it’s been run through the still, was simply homemade whiskey, often made at night.

Crafted in the mountains, moonshine — like many other Appalachian delicacies — was created from what was available in the area and derived from generational recipes over many years.

The problem, though, was that it was produced without government authorization. So, it was this bootleg booze for Mountaineers throughout history — for a number of reasons.

Not only was moonshine developed with available ingredients to consume but, by the 20th century, moonshining became an occupation for many Appalachians. With limited road networks, transportation was often expensive and difficult.

According to “Moonshine, Mountaineers, and Modernity: Distilling Cultural History in the Southern Appalachian Mountains” in the Journal of Appalachian Studies (2012), “One could transport much more value in corn if it was first converted to whiskey. One horse could haul 10 times more value on its back in whiskey than in corn.”

But like many Appalachian delicacies, e.g. ramps and morels, moonshine has caught the eye of folks who finally recognize the ingenuity in these mountains.

In recent years, the term “moonshine” has been applied to legal booze in order to market an elusive, mischievous drinking experience.

Merriam-Webster reflects this change, defining “moonshine”:

moon·shine (noun): intoxicating liquor, especially: illegally distilled corn whiskey; Synonyms: bootleg, mountain dew, white lightning

This switch to a more mainstream product tends to follow a routine. Moonshine was developed from what was available. Difficult terrain and roads limited accessibility to products, so the need was more utilitarian. But now, it’s trendy.

You can purchase moonshine at a local distillery or grocery store. And, there are more flavors than ever before: paw paw, strawberry lemonade and more.

And, I personally love seeing when Appalachian products are appreciated by a larger pool of people — granted, Appalachians receive the credit they deserve for their creativity.

Nonetheless, navigating how moonshine has transcended from mountain drink to city cocktail seems much in line with other Appalachian specialties. But, because of its very nature, it has stirred a debate on whether or not it’s the same product. When you take the hooch from its home, is it still hooch?

If it’s “legal,” is it still “moonshine”?

Here's my latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

My favorite week of the whole year is practically here: Charleston Restaurant Week.

It’s the one week of the year where you can enjoy specialty menus, eat a three-course meal and try a local restaurant outside your normal rotation, all for one price.

Except, this year, as you may already know, it’s two prices: $25 and $35.

That’s in an effort to allow some more flexibility for diners, as well as include some new restaurants that align better with a lower price point. That means more restaurants, more meals and much more fun.

Hosted by Buzz Food Service, the sixth-annual event all happens next week: Jan. 28 through Feb. 2. If you haven’t already carefully planned where you’re eating each night of the week, a) you have far more restraint than I do, and b) you can do so at cwvrestaurantweek.com.

This one week in January is an exciting opportunity for folks in Charleston to support local restaurants during a time of year when business tends to be slow. After a busy holiday season, it’s often tough to find the extra money in the budget to accommodate dining out. But armed with options of delicious specials at a reasonable price point, you have the ability to support your fellow community members — all while eating delicious food.

According to Buzz Food Service, restaurants throughout the years have reported serving more than 10,000 meals during the course of the six-day event. The total economic impact, which includes revenue from meals, bar sales, gratuity, taxes and incidentals, is estimated to exceed $500,000 each year.

There are a number of participating restaurants: ones that are reserved for special occasions and ones that are perfect for Saturday evening drinks. Ones that will satisfy your sweet tooth craving and ones that are perfect for the whole family. Ones that will serve old favorites and ones that will deliver you dishes crafted with ingredients you’ve never seen before.

Maybe you can switch up your typical order of spaghetti for a rich, indulgent dish of rigatoni, sausage and peas in a Parmesan cream sauce. Instead of your standard salmon, try a jerk mahi mahi special. Skip the typical burger and opt for crispy pork belly topped with a sweet-and-spicy glaze. Or, try them all. I’m not here to judge.

Is your mouth watering yet? I know mine is.

I’ll never pass up the opportunity to try something new, and I’m looking forward to seeing some new faces and new dishes this year. So, check out the website, make your reservations and join me for one of this year’s best local events.

Don’t forget to tag your photos with #cwvrestweek and share that food porn with the rest of us. It’s time to eat!

In full disclosure, I volunteer for the committee that organizes this event. I’ve loved this event ever since it started six years ago, and I am honored to help promote it with my fellow food-loving friends.

Here's my latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

What’s the one food that conjures up fond memories for you?

It could be the cookie recipe passed down to you from your grandma. Maybe a coveted casserole your aunt brought to your family reunions. Or the beans and cornbread you made on chilly fall nights.

For me, it’s the French toast my dad made every Sunday morning after my childhood birthday party sleepovers.

As a January baby, birthday parties can be complicated. Not only are purse strings tight because it’s right after the holidays, but the weather is also unpredictable. During my childhood, that led to Candace’s Annual Birthday Slumber Party.

These nights were usually filled with movies, snacks, lots of giggling and seeing how late we could stay up. And, the next morning was our favorite part: Frank’s Famous French Toast.

Standing in front of the hot stove, my dad would dredge a piece of white bread through an egg mixture with the perfect amount of spices. He would flip slice after slice after slice of French toast to golden brown perfection. Then, he’d announce when another piece was almost ready, and a girl would run up to claim it.

By the end of breakfast, everyone was staring at a half-eaten stack of French toast, bellies full, stuffed to the gills, as my dad asked if we were “already” full. Then, he would finish up what we couldn’t.

We still joke about one of my best friends, Kelly, who had eyes bigger than her stomach and would claim all of the sausage links but could only finish about half of them.

Now, I know we were using the 99-cent loaf of white bread then, and milk and eggs because they were affordable kitchen staples. But as I become more in touch with my roots, I’ve been thinking of ways to make one of my favorite meals incorporate more Appalachian flavor.

The bread could be homemade — or try using salt rising bread, which is a traditional Appalachian bread created by settlers. Rising Creek Bakery, in Mount Morris, Pennsylvania, makes a delicious version.

Source your eggs locally at your local farmers market. Farm-fresh eggs tend to be healthier and have a longer shelf-life than ones you may get in the grocery store. And, if you’re like me and only want a couple, your local farmer may be happy to sell you just three at a time.

Local maple syrup is one of the best ways to upgrade your French toast. Head to a local farm, like Family Roots Farm, to pick up a bottle of fresh syrup right from the land. This farm even sells their award-winning “Maple Sugar,” and “Maple Cream,” which can take your French toast to the next level.

However you decide to construct your breakfast, this dish is ripe for personalization and fine-tuning for your preferences. It can be simple and cost-effective for large groups or incorporate artisanal products sourced locally. But, I hope, in whatever form it takes, that it helps create memories for you and yours.

What’s your personal take on French toast?

My latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:

You may see them lining softball fields or growing along the highway — small, yellowish-orange fruits dotting the leaves.

The persimmon, a native American tree in the southeastern United States, is finally ready.

It’s during the fall that the small fruit ripens and produces sweet, pulpy nectar. But it’s not until after the first frost that you can dig in. Once they receive that chilly kiss, the persimmons trade their harsh bite in favor of a sweetness that everyone — raccoons, foxes, opossums and squirrels included — savors.

You know the persimmons are ripe once they have fallen to the ground, or do so with a little shake of the tree. And once you have gathered a basketful of fruit, you have many options: baked goods like pudding, cookies and more.

Persimmons can be used in most recipes that call for mashed pumpkin, applesauce or plums. Or they can even be used as a topping on ice cream!

Even persimmon seeds are useful in the transition of seasons. According to folklore, the shape, once split in two, can predict the winter weather. The seed takes the form of one of three different shapes:

A knife:

• This is the most severe symbol, indicating there will be a cold, icy winter where the wind will cut through you like a blade.

A fork:

• This symbol indicates a mild winter with light, powdery snow.

A spoon:

• This symbol represents a shovel, which will be needed to dig out of all the snow.

This small, yet mighty, fruit is a unique component of Appalachian cooking that can prove difficult to find — but it’s so worth the search.

And with its versatility and tasty flavor, it’s a gem in our cuisine. Try it with your morning breakfast or part of your dessert. Just make sure you scoop some up before it’s too chilly — or before someone else does.

Plum Bread Pudding with Maple Butter Sauce and Spiced Whipped Cream

The persimmons just received their first touch of frost, so here’s a recipe that could use those coveted persimmons or a substitute: plums. West Virginia chef Brittany Furbee, who won Food Network’s "Cooks vs. Cons" show, whipped up a perfect fall-inspired dish that puts those gems to use. Try it with a cup of coffee for maximum “mmm.” Brittany Furbee is an award-winning competitive home chef from Morgantown. Learn more by visiting Brittany Furbee’s Culinary Adventures on Facebook at facebook.com/BrittanyFurbeesCulinaryAdventures.

6 cups stale bread, cubed

3 eggs

½ cups half-and-half

1 cups whole milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

4 persimmons, chopped (plums can be substituted for persimmons)

¼ cup dark brown sugar

¼ cup maple syrup

¼ teaspoon cloves

⅛ teaspoon cinnamon

⅛ teaspoon nutmeg

⅛ teaspoon ginger

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup golden raisins

¼ cup chopped pecans

For the spiced whipped cream:

2 cup heavy whipping cream

3 tablespoon maple syrup

1 teaspoon cloves

¼ teaspoon salt

For the sauce:

½ cup maple syrup

½ cup butter

½ teaspoon cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 13x9x2-inch pan.

Mix together eggs, half-and-half, milk and vanilla in a bowl. Pour over cubed bread and let sit for 5 minutes. If many of the cubes are still dry, add additional milk until coated.

In another bowl mix together chopped plums, dark brown sugar, maple syrup, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, salt, golden raisins and pecans. Combine with bread mixture.

Pour bread mixture into prepared pan and bake for 35 to 45 minutes, or until set. Remove from oven.

For the spiced whipped cream: In a large bowl combine heavy whipping cream, maple syrup, cloves and salt. Beat with an electric mixer until soft peaks form, approximately 3-4 minutes. (Whipped cream can be prepared in advance and stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to two days.)

For the sauce: Combine additional maple syrup, butter, cinnamon and salt in a sauce pan. Warm over low heat and stir often until combined. Pour over bread pudding. Top with spiced whipped cream and serve warm.