Here is my latest column for the Charleston Gazette–Mail:

One sweet Appalachian celebration is anything but cookie-cutter.

In the heart of Western Pennsylvania and its surrounding regions, there exists a unique tradition that brings the community together: the Pittsburgh Cookie Table.

Often seen at weddings, graduations, and other milestone celebrations, the Pittsburgh Cookie Table is the designated dessert option that is full of homemade cookies gifted from loved ones. It is more than just a display of sugary treats; the custom is a symbol of community, love, and the enduring power of shared traditions.

The origins of the Pittsburgh Cookie Table are as varied as the cookies that adorn it. While the exact beginnings of the tradition are difficult to pinpoint, it is widely believed to have roots in the early 20th century, brought over by Italian and Eastern European immigrants who settled in the steel towns of Pittsburgh and the surrounding Appalachian areas.

These communities, many of which faced economic hardships, found ways to celebrate life's significant moments without the need for extravagant spending. The cookie table became a way for families and friends to contribute to a communal celebration, each offering their own homemade cookies as a gesture of love and support.

There are buttery Italian wedding cookies and delicate ladyfingers to rich chocolate chip cookies and intricate pizzelles. Polish kolaczki, Greek koulourakia, German spritz cookies and Italian biscotti. This diversity reflects the culinary journey through the region’s heritage.

Those cookies are a mixture of family favorites, fun finds and creative spins. Each cookie carries with it a story—a grandmother’s cherished recipe, a new creation shared by a friend, or a classic treat passed down through generations.

The cookie table is an expected and cherished part of any significant celebration — often taking center stage, with guests eagerly anticipating the moment they can sample the homemade confections. Guests are encouraged to fill small boxes or bags to take cookies home.

In many families, the recipes used for the cookie table have been handed down through the years, often with little variation. Grandparents teach their grandchildren the art of making the perfect butter cookie or the secret to achieving the ideal crispness in a biscotti. These baking sessions become opportunities for storytelling, with each recipe carrying the weight of history and the warmth of familial love. It’s a tradition that encapsulates the resilience, generosity and character of the people of the region.

Bodo's Bagels is a classic Charlottesville, Virginia, bakery with three locations across town. "Our bagels are made from scratch "in-house" every day, at each location. Every step, from the mixing of dough to the baking, is done on-premises. We follow a traditional all-natural recipe, with NO fats, preservatives, dairy or soy, and we only use unbleached, unbromated flours. Our bagels are always oven-fresh; we bake from open to close!"



Bodos has several types of bagels including: Plain, Whole Wheat, Sesame, Poppy, Onion, Cinnamon-Raisin, Everything, Everything on Whole Wheat, Garlic and Salt. I enjoyed a garlic bagel with smoked salmon and cream cheese. It is missing the classic red onions and capers to round out the flavor profile, but this was still very tasty. That bagel had a nice chew to it ans little bits of crunchy garlic made it fun to eat.



Grade: B

A few months ago, the South Charleston Dairy Bar reopened. I was so excited to check this place out for the first time because I have passed that building for years, and the nostalgic design reminded me of my childhood. It features a classic menu of hotdogs, hamburgers and ice cream. Plus, they do have other items like corndogs, chicken tenders, onion rings, fried mushrooms, cheese sticks, etc. They also have combo meals which you can pair with fries and daily specials, as well. A homemade dessert was even available at the counter. We called in an order, and my friend Mariah went to pick it up. She ordered a cheeseburger and fries, which she was happy with. I opted for a hotdog combo meal, which came with a side of fries and fountain drink. The hotdog was fine. The wiener didn't really fill out the bun. So, proportions were all off. I tasted more bun and slaw than anything else. The fries were fairly thick wedges, so they weren't super crispy. They tend to get pretty soft, pretty fast. That's not bad for folks who like a very potato-y fry, but I like mine on the crispy side. Overall, it's a pretty simple and standard meal in a nostalgic setting. Grade: C

The Schoolhouse Hotel is White Sulphur Springs' first full-service boutique hotel. This exciting project transformed the former historic White Sulphur Springs schoolhouse into a hub for the community and visitors alike. Featuring 30 uniquely appointed guest rooms, an upscale restaurant/grill, a rooftop bar, and a flexible ballroom space perfect for weddings, conferences and so much more. The Schoolhouse Hotel showcases the best in West Virginia hospitality and lodging in a completely inclusive atmosphere, according to the website.



The Varsity Club, The Schoolhouse Hotel's flagship restaurant, features upscale southern classics such as shrimp and grits. This venue can seat over eighty people and features a full bar, serving creative cocktails, an exciting wine list, local brews, and more. Tufted leather banquettes and lively plaid fabrics create a timeless environment where guests can enjoy everything from grilled steaks to house-made salads and she-crab soup.



My friend Kayla and I stopped by this unique hotel for brunch. We really enjoyed all of the little details they kept from the original school building. It is very refined, but still a little fun, which I appreciate.



I ordered the French toast, made with cinnamon bread, fresh berries, maple syrup, and a choice of breakfast meat, which for me was sausage links. This was a solid version of French toast: There was some nice color on the on the bread, making it flavorful. The berries and syrup and powdered sugar were all nice. I would like more butter, but that's just my personal preference. All in all, a pretty tasty brunch.



Grade: A

"A taste of community right here in Shepherdstown based on the flavors and heritage of Appalachia," reads Alma Bea's Facebook page.



The space is large with plenty of gravel parking. It is decorated with colorful chicken graphics and serves food on cast iron-inspired dishes. I had been to this location previously when it was another restaurant. In this rendition, I think hip take on country decor is neat.



The menu follows the same lead: Appalachian base dishes with a bit of flair. Handpies, potlikker greens, heirloom grits and pepperoni rolls are just a sampling of that.



The bottom of the menu reads: Appalachian Mountain cuisine is the story of the adventurous folks who came to this region to create lives for their families, bringing with the many food traditions from their families and homelands. It's a story that we in the kitchen hope to celebrate, recreate and reimagine. We hope our efforts will nourish your soul and bring you joy.



I ordered a goat cheese and caramelized onion tart and mac & cheese. I know on this particular day I was having severe back pain. But even through that, I was in heaven over this tart. The caramelized onions were so sweet and married perfectly with that funky goat cheese. The salad had fresh summer berries, and the mac & cheese was creamy. I'd love to go back and check out more options.



Grade: A