Here's my latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail:
In Appalachia, jelly is more than just a sweet spread.
Sure, grape, blackberry, strawberry and raspberry jellies are all familiar favorites.
But jelly has a spicy side, too. When red, yellow and green peppers, jalapeños and habaneros join the mix, a whole new spread is formed: hot pepper jelly.
Hot pepper jelly is made from peppers and sugar, resulting in a sweet-and-spicy condiment. Unlike fruit jellies, which are purely sweet, hot pepper jelly combines the natural heat of chili peppers with sugar, vinegar, and pectin to create a delicious spread.
Most food historians trace the earliest versions of pepper jelly to the late 1800s, when American home cooks first had reliable access to commercial pectin. Before that, jellies relied on long boiling times or naturally high-pectin fruits.
But once boxed pectin appeared at general stores, home canners began experimenting — thickening things no one had bothered to gel before. Peppers were an obvious candidate. They were abundant in the South, easy to grow, and already beloved in both sweet and savory preserving traditions. Early Southern cookbooks mention “pepper preserves,” usually sweetened and sometimes spiked with vinegar, but not yet the glossy, jewel-toned jelly we know today.
Appalachia, though, was fertile ground for the idea. Mountain gardeners have always had a knack for coaxing peppers into bumper crops. Even the most modest backyard patch can produce more jalapeños and banana peppers than a family can reasonably use.
And in a region where waste has never been an option, hot pepper jelly became a smart solution. By the 1930s and ’40s, as canning supplies grew cheaper and extension agents spread recipes through county fairs and grange halls, hot pepper jelly began appearing in Appalachian homes.
But the real boom came after World War II, when canning culture surged again and sugar shed its wartime rationing. Newly published church cookbooks — those treasured binders held together with plastic combs — started listing pepper jelly under “relishes” and “holiday recipes.” Mountain versions developed their own characteristics: a little more vinegar and a little more heat.
Every maker has a preferred method. Some swear by green jalapeños for clarity, others blend red bells and cayennes for a ruby finish. Apple cider vinegar tends to dominate here, lending that familiar Appalachian tang found in chowchow and three-bean salad. And while traditional recipes keep it simple, many modern cooks slip in peaches, cranberries, or even a splash of bourbon.
Appalachia has long relied on community networks — church basements, fundraisers, holiday exchanges — to keep traditions alive, and hot pepper jelly fits right in. By the late 20th century, pepper jelly had become a fixture — not just in home kitchens but in Appalachian food businesses. Small-batch producers began selling their versions at farmers markets and festivals. Restaurants started pairing it with fried chicken, pimento cheese, biscuits, or country ham. It stepped out of the pantry and onto the menu, carrying its history along with it.
Today, the resurgence of Appalachian cuisine has only strengthened its place. Chefs treat it as both a traditional preserve and a modern condiment. Home cooks use it as a glaze, a marinade, a topping, a secret ingredient.
Hot pepper jelly is resourceful, bold, a little sweet, a little fiery. It tells the story of how a simple Southern preserve found a home in the mountains and became, over time, something unmistakably Appalachian.
And around here, that’s history worth spreading.
Shake Your Boba is a bubble tea/boba shop located at 36 River Walk Mall in South Charleston.
They serve a variety of boba tea drinks — milk teas, fruit teas — and also some fun extras like bubble waffles.
I ordered a brown sugar boba milk tea, which was sweet and creamy with soft, chewy boba.
The bubble waffle is lightly golden and slightly soft, almost like a cross between a waffle and a soft pastry. The strawberries layer on a sweet-tart freshness that keeps every bite lively.
Grade: A
Quarrier Diner is a historic downtown Charleston diner located at 1022 Quarrier Street in Charleston. The building dates back to the 1930s — originally a classic steel railcar diner. In the mid-1940s it was remodeled into an Art Deco style building, complete with Vitrolite glass tiles and a streamlined look that gives it a distinctive retro aesthetic.
The location has gone through various restaurant owners and periods of vacancy, as well. At one point, it was on an endangered properties list.
Quarrier Diner serves up hearty, classic American diner fare — especially for breakfast and lunch.
I ordered the Kielbasa Dogs - "2 Kielbasa Dogs On Split-Top Buns With Sauerkraut, Onions & Mustard" to go.
I love kielbasa, so I was excited for these. The sausage was hearty. The classic yellow mustard added a familiar tang that tied everything together. Still, the overall flavor could be elevated with a sharper brown mustard or spicy grainy blend to bring more depth and balance to each bite.
I think their breakfast has received more rave reviews, so I'd like to return to check that out.
Grade: B
Coffee With A Twist is a Christian-based coffee shop that features pretzels on Main Avenue.
They offer a variety of beverages, including lattes, mochas, chais, smoothies, dirty sodas and more.
Food options include pepperoni rolls, pretzels, hamwiches and more.
On my visit, I did a plain pretzel and a blondie to drink. Both serviceable. Decent flavor, but no extra *pop* to make it stand out.
Have you been?
Grade: B
Huddle & Hatchets is a bar & grill + axe-throwing spot located at 122 Capitol St.
It combines a casual sports-bar vibe (with a full bar and multiple large TVs) with recreational axe-throwing — so you can drink, eat, watch the game, and throw axes.
Huddle & Hatchets serves typical bar & grill / comfort-food style fare: nachos, wings, loaded potato skins/tots, sliders, tacos, pretzel bites, wraps, and other appetizers and entrees meant for sharing or casual dining.
Their menu features standout items like loaded tater kegs, “Tailgate Tacos” (including a popular “Hawaiian” chicken-mango-pineapple taco), pretzel-bun sliders with beer cheese & caramelized onions, potstickers with bourbon sauce, and more.
I ordered the "First String Sliders," which are three juicy mini burgers on pretzel buns with beer cheese and caramelized onions, with a side of tater tots.
The sliders were fine— the patties had decent flavor, but they leaned a little dry, and the pretzel buns I wish were a bit softer.
The "Peanut Butter Penalty Shake" was a wonderful way to end the meal - creamy vanilla ice cream topped with Reese's peanut butter cups, chocolate syrup and whipped cream. Yes.
Grade: B
The Feast of the 7 Fishes is an American Christmas Eve tradition centered on a celebratory, seafood-only meal. Its roots trace back to southern Italy, where Catholics historically abstained from meat on certain holy days, opting instead for fish. Italian immigrants brought the custom to the United States, where it grew into a beloved holiday ritual—especially in Italian-American families.
Why “Seven” Fishes? There’s no single definitive explanation. Many families interpret the number symbolically—seven sacraments, seven days of creation, or the number’s frequent appearance in the Bible. In practice, the feast can have seven dishes, or nine, eleven, even thirteen—each family chooses its own meaning and menu.
Capitol Market hosted its first-ever Feast of the Seven Fishes Dinner tonight — a one-night-only celebration of food, family, and festivity brought to life by James Beard–nominated chef Chase Collier and the acclaimed team from Ristorante Abruzzi.
Course 1
Oyster RockefellerSpinach, gruyere, panko
Course 2
Blackened ScallopSweet corn puree, crispy pancetta
Course 3
Lump Crab SaladLemon, dill, chives, crusty focaccia
Course 4
CioppinoMussels, clams, shrimp, squid, spicy tomato brodo
Course 5
Parmesan Herb Crusted CodRoasted vegetables, cranberry agrodolce
Course 6
Tuna TartareCrispy capers, Dijon, shallot, citrus, Calabrian chili, spiced cracker
Course 7
CheesecakeNori crust, scallop mousse, Swedish fish reduction
Gift from the chef
BrigadeirosBrazilian fudgy ball
This & That Bakery in Morgantown (well, technically Granville) delivers delicious goodies like macarons and pepperoni rolls fresh from the oven.
"Annie, Becky, and Molly are self-taught bakers who have a lifetime of experience baking and cooking for friends and family, and as cottage-law bakers in WV for almost 15 years," reads the website.
Their signature pepperoni rolls, offered in regular, banana-pepper, jalapeño, and seasonal ramp flavors — are baked in garlic-herb bread with olive oil and deli pepperoni.
More options include artisan loaves, assorted bagels, savory scones, focaccia, and even tomato-ricotta tarts.
Sweet treats include cupcakes, cakes, brownies and more. I enjoyed a solid pepperoni roll and a variety of other traits that were all just as tasty.
Have you been?
Grade: A
Holly Jolly Hideaway is a seasonal pop-up cocktail bar, timed to coincide with the first weekend of Holly Jolly Brawley. It is set up in the space formerly occupied by Dem 2 Brothers Restaurant at 189 Summers Street.
The idea was to create a cozy, festive “holiday-bar vibe” with Christmas-themed decorations, thousands of lights, holiday films on screen, and a fun, immersive seasonal atmosphere.
The Hideaway has a selection of seasonal holiday-themed cocktails and themed small plates / apps. Some featured drinks include:
The Naughty Bean — a peppermint-kissed espresso martini.
Mistletoe Margarita — with cranberry juice and rosemary.
Tinsel & Tonic — gin with elderflower liqueur and edible glitter.
Yule Be Sorry — Fireball + cider + ginger beer.
Reindeer Games — bourbon with pomegranate and orange.
The Grinch — a green-hued cocktail with Midori, vodka, lemon, and Sprite, garnished with a small red fruit “heart.”
Food options include:
Ho-Ho-Hot Chicken Sliders — three buttermilk-fried chicken sliders with spicy honey glaze and dill pickles on brioche buns.
Slay-Ride Sliders — mini brisket burgers with smoked gouda, crispy onions, and pepper jelly.
Naughty Nachos — chips topped with your choice of brisket or chicken, white queso, pickled jalapeños, and cranberry BBQ drizzle.
The Grinch Dip — a spinach-artichoke dip with a jalapeño kick served with colorful nacho chips.
Here's what I sampled: Reindeer Games cocktail which was a very generous pour with a healthy amount of bourbon. I also tried the Yule Be Sorry, which did the exact opposite - made us all thankful for such a tasty drink.
The brisket burger sliders had a perfect blend of salty, sweet, smoky & crunchy all in one bite. Wonderful.
The spinach-artichoke dip took things up a notch with Doritos Cool Ranch chips. Would I ever have paired those? No. Will I always pair those moving forward? Yes.
Grade: A
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