Here's my latest column for HD Media:

Most of us wouldn’t enjoy the dampest, darkest and most decaying part of the woods. But, that’s exactly where this fungi thrives.

Oyster mushrooms, rather than being ocean-loving beach-dwellers as their name might suggest, grow along dead or dying trees like oak or beech in Appalachia and beyond.

The group of edible fungi are known for their soft, fan-shaped caps that resemble oyster shells – hence the name. They grow in soft, overlapping clusters on hardwood like logs, stumps and even fallen branches. When flipped over, their gills run all the way down the short stem like pleats.

But there are a number of individual species that fall under the oyster mushroom umbrella, and each has its own unique characteristics:

Pearl oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus) - This is the classic gray to tan oyster mushroom that grows in shelf-like clusters on hardwood logs. It is most commonly found in fall and again in cool spring stretches.

Phoenix oyster (Pleurotus pulmonarius) - Lighter in color, thinner and shows up in summer when the pearl tapers off, the phoenix is a warm-weather counterpart to the pearl.

Golden oyster (Pleurotus citrinopileatus) - This mushroom is bright yellow, delicate and short-lived once picked. It is not native, but it is now naturalized in parts of Appalachia.

Blue oyster - A cultivated variety of the pearl oyster, the blue oyster is slightly thicker, more robust and very forgiving to cook.

King oyster (Pleurotus eryngii) - This one looks different from the others with a thick stem and small cap. It is not found in the area.

Pink oyster (Pleurotus djamor) - Tropical, bright pink and found usually in farmers markets or other similar shops, as it doesn’t grow naturally in the area.

Pearl, phoenix and golden oyster varieties have been around for ages – still emerging in the woods after a good rain – while blue, king and pink, at least in Appalachia, are more likely to have been a product of cultivation.

Oyster mushrooms have been cultivated since World War I, when Germany began growing them on straw and agricultural waste as a way to stretch food rations. The Germans discovered that oyster mushrooms require very little to grow quickly. That discovery spread quickly to the rest of Europe and eventually the United States.

Now, oyster mushrooms are a staple at farmers markets. And, for good reason. They have a mild, slightly sweet flavor with a hint of umami. The texture can range from tender and silky to meaty, depending on how they were cooked — whether that’s sautéed, roasted or fried.

That range speaks to the mushroom’s broader flexibility: It makes use of what’s available, much like the region. In Appalachia, that kind of resourcefulness has long shaped the way people cook, turning what’s on hand into something delicious.

What starts in the background of the forest often ends up taking center stage on the plate.