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New Haven, CT Edition: Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana

By Candace Nelson - 10:05 PM

Frank Pepe, born in 1893 in Maiori, Italy, immigrated to the United States in 1909 and eventually settled in New Haven, Connecticut. After working in bakeries and other jobs, he and his wife Filomena opened a small bakery in 1925 on Wooster Street, which soon evolved into a pizzeria. Pepe began selling simple “apizza” pies — thin, coal-fired pizzas topped with tomato, garlic, olive oil, grated cheese, and sometimes anchovies — and quickly gained a loyal following. In 1937, the business moved into a larger space at 157 Wooster Street, where it remains today. Known for its distinctive charred crust and commitment to quality, Pepe’s became a New Haven institution, with its white clam pizza later achieving iconic status. It was introduced in the mid-20th century, when clams were abundant and cheap along the Connecticut shoreline. The pizza is built on Pepe’s signature thin, coal-fired crust, which develops a crisp, slightly charred texture from the high-heat brick ovens. Instead of a tomato base, it uses fresh shucked littleneck clams, grated Pecorino Romano cheese, garlic, olive oil, and a sprinkle of oregano. The brininess of the clams mingles with the sharp, salty cheese and the roasted garlic, creating a pie that is rich yet balanced, with the smokiness of the crust tying everything together. Grade: A

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