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COLUMN: Trumpet fungi creates a symphony of flavors

10:59 AM

Here is my latest column for the Charleston Gazette-Mail.

A few of life’s simple pleasures are trumpet-shaped: campanelle pasta with its petal-like edges, the beautiful brugmansia flower know as “Angels’ Trumpet” and chanterelle mushrooms with their wavy cap edges.

Chanterelles (Cantharellus) are bright orange fungi that pop up from late spring into early autumn in small woodlands throughout Appalachia and have a peppery, slightly nutty flavor; a firm, meaty texture; and a fruity apricot scent.

Joining the likes of morel mushrooms, chicken of the woods mushrooms and oyster mushrooms, wild chanterelles have been collected for years as part of Appalachia’s rich foraging history.

The foraged bounty can be made into dishes like wild mushroom soup, chanterelle and cornbread stuffing, sauteed chanterelles with potatoes, wild mushroom gravy, and simple battered and fried mushrooms.

Chanterelles gained worldwide popularity in the 18th century when the delicacy became integral to French cuisine and was included in many classic dishes:

- chanterelle veloute, which is a rich and creamy soup made with onions, garlic, cream and sherry;
- chanterelle and gruyere tart, which is a savory tart made with a buttery crust, cheese and custard;
- and omelette aux girolles, which is an omelet filled with chanterelles, shallots and fresh herbs like parsley or chives. It wasn’t long before chanterelles became a well-established gourmet ingredient.

The golden chanterelle is the most well-known and sought-after species, though there are similar edible species, like white chanterelles and red chanterelles.

But, there are also mushrooms that look similar that are not edible, specifically the jack-o’-lantern mushroom. The jack-o’-lantern mushroom has a similar orange-yellow color, but features differences in gills, growth pattern, smell and habitat.

*Disclaimer: Foraging for wild mushrooms can be dangerous if you are not experienced and knowledgeable about mushroom identification. Consuming the wrong mushrooms can lead to severe illness or death. Always forage with an expert or consult reliable resources to ensure the mushrooms you collect are safe to eat.

Chanterelles are a tasty, savory morsel rooted in the rich, natural heritage of Appalachia. These foraged finds speak to not only the storied past, but also the ingenuitive future of the region. Chanterelles bring the trumpet to a delicious Appalachian symphony.