My latest column in the Charleston Gazette-Mail has published:

“Pittsburgh style” can refer to a few different things on a menu:

-French fries on a salad

-A charred steak with a rare interior

-A type of BBQ ham sandwich

This original Northern Panhandle West Virginian is familiar with and enjoys all of the meals above, but the latter - the BBQ ham sandwich - is something I think more folks below the Mason-Dixon Line should experience.

Chipped chopped ham, or chipped ham, is a processed ham lunch meat made with ham chunks, trimmings and seasonings that is ground and packed into loaves. That loaf is chipped, or shaved, against a deli slicer blade for thin slices. These thin slices are often pan-fried in BBQ sauce and placed on a bun to create a delicious, regional sandwich.

So, it’s not really “ham.” And, actually, it’s not really “BBQ” - at least not in a traditional way. The ham has been processed upteen times, and there’s no grill involved for the BBQ. But, that doesn’t really matter.

These BBQ ham sandwiches were made locally famous by a store called Isaly’s in the Pittsburgh area. They sold their own “Original Chipped Chopped Ham” and “Original BBQ sauce” and served up a combo of the two between two pieces of bread for customers to eat on site.

“From our beginnings in the early 1900s, the Isaly family and its successors have pursued one mission: bringing deli and dairy products of consistent freshness, purity, and unbeatable flavor, made according to original Isaly’s recipes to your family table. We are best known for our ‘signature’ products, Original Chipped Chopped Ham, Original BBQ sauce, and Old Fashioned Whitehouse Cherry Ice Cream,” the store website reads.

Many still use those original ingredients to make their BBQ ham sandwiches at home. But there’s a lot of variation, whether that’s adding green pepper, onion and celery to the ham mixture or topping the sandwich with pickle relish. Others may make their own BBQ sauce out of ketchup, vinegar, brown sugar, worcestershire sauce and mustard.

Growing up, I had no clue this was a regional delight. My mom would make this for lunch and dinner; it was a quick and easy meal that was a crowd-pleaser. Our version was simple: Skillet, add chipped ham, add BBQ sauce and a little seasoning, cook until nice and crisp, pile inside a sandwich bun and enjoy.

It wasn’t until I moved from the Pittsburgh area that I learned the BBQ ham sandwich is a mystery to most others. But, it’s so simple and tasty that I have brought the “recipe” with me as I’ve moved south and share it with friends often.

These food traditions are what make our food culture so special. It’s these stories that help define who we are and what we value. It’s these little tidbits that could be lost to time if we don’t help preserve them.

So, tell me, what are some of your regional favorites? It can be a recipe or unique ingredient or different way to prepare a dish or a technique. What foods are important to your family? And why?

RECIPE: BBQ Ham Sandwich

The most traditional BBQ sandwich you can make would likely be made with Isaly’s Original Chipped Chopped Ham and Original BBQ sauce, though I know those ingredients aren’t readily available for folks south of the Mason-Dixon Line. You can get these shipped directly to your home if you’re interested. But if that’s too much work, simply choose your favorite BBQ sauce and a package of sliced ham to get the same effect.

Ingredients:

1 cup Sweet Baby Ray’s BBQ sauce

12 oz. chipped ham

Sandwich buns


Directions:


Heat a medium-sized skillet over medium heat on the stove.


Once the skillet is warm, add in the chipped ham and heat through.


Add 1 cup of Sweet Baby Ray’s BBQ sauce to the pan and coat the chipped ham until mixed thoroughly.


Simmer until the ham crisps up a bit and the BBQ forms a sweet crust on the ham.


Remove from heat.


Serve on sandwich buns.